Saturday, July 21, 2012

Back in California

I am home. After a 20 hour travel day I arrived home to the loving arms of my wonderful husband. My last day in Florence was a perfect food day. It started with meeting my friend Toni, who owns a food walking tour in Florence called "Taste of Florence". We had a fantastic lunch, then strolled the city. The evening was another fun dinner at a vegetarian Italian restaurant with Che-che, Jamie and Dada.

It was a great trip and I am glad to be home.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Concert and a medieval tower


July 16, 2012
It started out as a quiet day. We went out for lunch to have a pizza. It was delicious. Then to the grocery store for a couple of things. We talked to Jamie and she said Elenora and Luca had a concert that night in a small town outside, but near Florence. So about 7:30 pm we went to Che-che’s house to pick up Jamie and Che-che. Another friend Maurice was there and I talked to him. He is Irish, but has lived in Florence for 22 years. I asked him how he ended up here and he said, “Shoes!” When he was a child in Ireland on Sunday at church he was fascinated by the shoes people had on. This is where his love of shoes began. He now had a shoe collection and works in the shoe industry in Florence.

Jamie, Che-che, Dada and I got into the car and drove to the concert. It was in a park with a medieval tower in the center. It was a warm night and the concert started about 10 pm and lasted for two hours. It was a group of 5, a drummer, a violinist, a bass player, and Luca who played about 10 instruments (several types of clarinets, several sizes of sax, bass, cello) and sang and Elernora who played keyboard and accordion and also sang.

It was so much more than a concert; it had poetry, theatre, dance and amazing music. It was very coordinated but seemed improvised. It was funny and touching. It was jazzy and folk. It was passionate and lyrical. I loved it.

Dada with her bag and the carry on luggage size restriction box


Ryan Air

Ryan Air is a well known discount airlines in Europe. They had lots of other ways to make money, and they have very severe restrictions on carry on luggage. When we were boarding the plane in Chania, they made everyone put their bag in this box and if it did not fit, they had to pay or not take the bag. We amused ourselves for about an hour watching people pound with fists, using their feet and sitting on their bags to get them to fit in this box, so they could take it as a carry on bag for no charge. It was amazing how they could squeeze those bags into the box and sometimes they had more trouble getting then out of the box.
The other ways Ryan Air has to make money are; choosing a seat, checking a bag, food on board, gifts on board, lottery tickets on board (2 Euros each or 6 for 10 Euros), advertising on the overhead bins, extra insurance, talking to them on the phone rather than the Internet, and printing a boarding pass for you. But the plane tickets are very cheap and Ryan Air is very popular.

Monastery #2 from the outside


Monastery #1


Typical cafe in a small village


Typical house in a small village


Inside a rural church


Goodbye Frangokastello (Greek: Φραγκοκάστελλο)


July 15, 2012
I am sitting in the Chania Airport waiting for our flight to Pisa. We started the morning at our hotel in Frangokastello. We drove from the south side of Crete to the north to arrive at the airport. Yesterday was the day of three beaches and today is the day of three monasteries. The first one had a ceremony going on with balloons and a wooden cartoon pirate holding the balloons on each side of the door to the church. There were 30 people, with gifts waiting for the ceremony. A young girl, about seven, was the cause for the celebration. She had glitter in her hair. 

The monastery itself was lovely, partially in ruin and partially in good shape. I did see the guests who were waiting, smoking and putting their cigarette butts in the plants and small aqueduct. I was horrified. The smoking in Greece was very widespread and there are no restrictions at all. It made me crazy, because often I was the only person who was not smoking. Cigarette butts were everywhere, except on the beaches. Californians are really extreme compared to the rest of the world, when it comes to our smoking rules.

The next monastery, about 10 kilometers from the first, was large and had a big business of olive oil, honey, raki and wine. The land surrounding the monastery was a vineyard, olive orchard and lots of bee hives.  No photos were allowed inside, but it had a fantastically ornate church and lovely courtyards. The third monastery was much smaller, undergoing restoration, but was on a high remote hill overlooking the sea. Pictures were not allowed. 

We got to the airport in plenty of time to return our car. When we returned our car, it appears someone tried to break in and there was damage to the lock, so we got charged an extra 356 Euros, more than twice as much as we paid for the car!

We arrived at Dada’s home at midnight. Our plane was late, we took the bus from Pisa to Florence, then another local bus. We were planning to take another bus, but because it was Sunday and so late, there were no more busses…so we walked. It took about 40 minutes to get to Dada’s house. We walked by a ruin of a Roman bath in her neighborhood. When we got to her house she made pasta with garlic and olive oil for a midnight supper in the garden. We also had iced red wine. How can such a simple dinner be so perfect?

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Greek Coffee


Beach 3




Beach 2


Beach 1


Three Beaches and Three Swims


July 14, 2012

It finally has arrived, my last day in Greece, tomorrow we catch our plane for Pisa then back to Florence for a couple of days (with a packed schedule of seeing friends, dinner parties, seeing sites and of course eating Italian food). It was a day of three swims at three different beaches. I started the day with a swim the moment I woke up. There was only one person on the beach and the water was perfect. The Libyan Sea here is very clear and warm. I can actually see my shadow on the bottom when I am swimming. As soon as I was finished with my swim, we packed up and drove off.  When we stopped at a very high point to take photos of the sea, I swear I could see Libya! We stopped in Sellia for breakfast. It is a small village up on the mountainside. We had omelets and Greek coffee, plus I had watermelon and Dada had a dish of yogurt topped with local honey. It looked like an ice cream Sunday. The owner, who spoke very little English, sat with us and insisted on toasting us with a Raki, even though I said no…but I did. It is strong and clear and you are supposed to drink it in one shot. It burns going down, but everyone here seems to drink it. Then he sat with us and we chatted for a while…it is amazing what conversations you can have, even though you don’t speak the same language. We then drove for another 30 minutes on narrow winding mountain roads to our final stop, Frannokastello. It is another beach town, but far less developed, but has another Venetian Fort. We drove up and got a room at this remote and nearly deserted beach. The second swim was here at our hotel. It is rocky and the water is clear and greener than the first beach. Next on my agenda was sitting on our terrace looking out at the Libyan Sea and thinking about my travels coming to an end.  And remembering all the great things I have done, seen and ate! Next was a nap, and then off to the Venetian Fort, which is more like a small castle for a swim at that beach. This was my third and final swim for the day. It was white sand and the water was like a swimming pool. Even when it is very deep, I can see the bottom and fish on a background of white sand.

Getting rooms has been easy and we never paid more than 40 Euros. This last room is only 30 Euros. Despite the upbeat attitude of the people here, I can see from the closed shops, half built buildings and empty restaurants, that the economy is suffering. The tax used to be 9%, but now it is 23%.  It used to be affordable for people to come to Greece, but now it is not so cheap. So fewer people come. 

Friday, July 13, 2012

I am 150 miles from Lybia


July 13, 2012
Friday the 13th in Greece seems very lucky for me, I am swimming in the Libyan Sea. Slept late, went immediately to swim, with only one other person on the beach. Walked to town for a coffee along the beach, then back to the local place we went for dinner the night before for omelets. Dada wanted to swim at the beach right there and I went back to the beach in front of our hotel for a swim. I spent all day either swimming or laying in the beach chair and I am exhausted.

The Beach




View from where I am blogging right now (that is our car)


View from room


Greek Orthodox Shrines along the road



Knossos (Κνωσός in Greek)





Knossos


July 12, 21012
Today we finally got into the archeological site Knossos. It is controversial because one of the archeologists from the early 1900’s did reconstructions on the site of what he thought the site looked like. I hated these. It prevents your imagination from working. We beat the tour groups and did the backwards tour to avoid the crowds from the cruises. I was glad to see it. Then we said good-bye to Maria (hotel and shop owner) and Manuel (kiosk owner who gave us coffee). I also bought a bracelet from Maria, I thought I should try and get something from her for all the kindness she showed.

Then we drove and drove to the south coast of Crete. We took some small and scary roads, but drove up to the beach of Plakias. Lovely large cove. We drove to the edge of town, stopped to eat and I said I was going to ask about rooms. The “On the Rocks” had a perfect room with a small terrace overlooking the beach and two beds. And the price of the room includes two beach chairs and an umbrella. Also, they have internet access, which I have had trouble getting because we are moving so much.

We spent the day swimming and then walked all the way through town to the farthest restaurant, which was a family run local place, all outside and right on the beach. I had a modified and expanded Greek Salad. I try to get other things, I read the whole menu and there are many vegetarian choices, but it is so hot that I always come back to a lovely salad. Every meal for the last week ends with a plate of watermelon, sometimes with another melon or cucumbers, but always watermelon. They also serve raki, a local wine, very strong, in shot glasses. This is a “gift from the house”.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Santarini








Santarini


July 11, 2012
Up early, then Dada drove me to the boat for Santarini. This is one of the most famous Greek islands, know for its blue and white buildings. It was a 2 hour boat road on a big fast hydrofoil boat. I was expecting a donkey ride up to the town, but there is a new port now and you go by bus. (I heard they still have the donkeys, but I did not see them.)  It was a brutally hot day, but I walked the capital village Faria.  It was mobbed with tourists and full of small shops selling t-shirts, frozen yogurt, trinkets, jewelery, and assorted restaurants. When I made it to the top of the village I saw a sign for the Santarini Palace. So I walked up another flight of stairs and came upon a very fancy hotel all white with a beautiful blue pool and a view of the blue sea. I was so hot, I went to the bartender and said, “Can I swim in your pool?” and he said, “Sure”. It was the most refreshing swim and really saved me from the searing heat. 
I took the boat back and Dada was there to meet me, with the air-conditioned car. And we went to our restaurant for dinner, but I told her, that I could not last until midnight tonight. I was tired from all the sun. The dinner was more of the same from the night before, with lots of wine and talk on how to live one’s life. They were a lovely family.

Knossos - Archaeological Museum – Heraklion









Best Greek Coffee with view


Knossos


July 10, 2012
We left early, because we did not want to have a problem with the car…like getting a ticket or getting it towed.
Dada is our driver and she had driven about 30 minutes and said I am going to stop for coffee. She turns off the national highway and we arrive at the most picturesque village with a small harbor and a beach perched on a hillside. Very small. We walked to the end of the street and sat at a table, perched on the end of the cliff overlooking the ocean and had a coffee (the best of the trip so far) and a breakfast. It was a storybook village.
We drove east along the northern coast toward Heraklion to go to the Archeological Museum and then Knossos, a Minoan archeological site. We made it to the museum, which was under renovation so only a small gallery was open but it was a wonderful collection of very ancient artifacts, some from 6500 BC. Loved it. It was hot, but we walked to the port to check on tickets for a boat trip to Santarini. The cheap ferry for 18 Euros only goes once a week, but the tourist boat goes everyday but for 102 euros. Dada decided not to go, but I booked my ticket.
Then we spent most of the day looking for a small beach village to stay for a couple of nights, because I will be spending the entire day on Santarini, we wanted a nice place for Dada to hang out until I return. In the end we gave up, found a beach to take a swim and have a coffee, then decided to look for a place in Knossos, where we will be touring the following day.
We arrive in the Knossos and we cannot see a real village and drive a bit further and then we stop at an outdoor restaurant and ask the young punk rocker type guy. He was tall, dressed in low slung sweat pants and his head was shaved except for a strip on top that stood straight up maybe 3 inches and the ends were dyed blond. He also had an eyebrow piercing. He was very animated and told us where to go…he said, "It was easy."  I said, "Yes, easy for you! Could you come with us and show us?" He was reluctant so I asked him to draw me a map, so he wrote some directions down and promised to go with us if we could not find it on our own and came back. 
We got to the town and could not see anything, so we stopped and I hopped out and asked the person at the tourist kiosk. He said it is right up there on the hill, but no one is there, but I will call them for you. He was shockingly helpful. He takes out his cell phone and then hands it to me to make the deal for the night. I asked him if there was anywhere to get a coffee and he said his house, which happened to be next door to the house with the rooms. He had to close up his kiosk and then he got in our car and we drove the 100 meters up a steep hill into the village to his house. Manuel welcomed us in and it was beautifully designed, he had just moved back in after remodeling. It was and small stone home that he expanded with a living room and a loft for is bedroom. There was an inner courtyard off the kitchen and a terrace on the roof.  We sat in the inner courtyard and he made us a foamed, creamy, iced latte. His mother was there too, she pulled up a chair and made comments (without speaking) about how hot it was (apparently this will be the hottest week on record!). 
We talked for about 30 minutes, waiting for Maria, the hotel owner to arrive. He lives 5 months here during tourist season and then 7 months in Egypt. His home reflected this, with gorgeous light fixtures handmade from Egypt. He gave such beautiful opinions on life and he lived to travel. He had strong opinions and I found that I agreed with him. He is angry and hurt that the world has a wrong opinion of Greeks as lazy and do not want to work. Maria arrived and she was equally charming, the room is small, but clean and equipped with a kitchen.
As it was 9 pm by then, we decided to return to the punk rockers restaurant. The mother and son were delighted to see us, we were the only ones in this large open-air place. A bit later a couple of their relatives and friends showed up.  So began a long evening of conversation on the philosophy of life, comparisons of people’s cultures, stories of world travel and explanations of how the Greek live and think. The food was delicious and I had my usual Greek salad. We arrived at 9 pm and left after midnight.

Fort in Rethymno, Crete, Greece





Reythymno, Crete, Greece


July 9, 2012

I am sitting on my terrace in the old city of Reythymno. When you travel so many things happen in a day…today we left Kissamos by bus after a lovely breakfast (Greek Omelet) and a Greek coffee in the town square by the small church. It must be a very small town because after three nights I am already recognizing people. We transferred busses in Chania for a 30-minute bus ride to the airport to get our car. Everything went smooth and the rental people were very talkative and I used this to ask questions I have about Greece and the current situation. It was really fun. We hopped in our nearly new car and were giddy with the new freedom of being able to stop wherever we wanted. Our first stop was to have coffee and it overlooked a stunning beach. After we finished our snack, Dada had meatballs and I had a fennel pie, we decided to try and find our way down to this beach. It took us about 20 minutes but we finally found the way down and had a wonderful swim with the other 15 people who were on this fairly remote beach.
We finally made it to Rethhymno and walked in the old city discovering a superbly preserved fort, Venetian, with a beautiful Mosque inside the fort. It was designed to hold the whole city when they were under attack. The city has Turkish influences, with the wonderful wooden houses that overhang on the second floor, which I saw in Turkey and well as other Venetian homes. By then it was 7 pm and I did not want to not have a place when it gets dark so I saw a sign “rooms” and asked, no vacancies, I asked for a recommendation, she said go to the bookstore around the corner, sometimes they have rooms, so we went there and again no vacancies. I asked my same question about a recommendation and the woman sent us around the corner to a house that had a hand written sign “rooms”. The woman who answered the doorbell was 30ish and very charming and happy. She was pleased to engage in conversation about Greece. She told me she was an X-ray technician and she used to be paid 1000 euros a month, but now only gets 500 euros because her salary was cut by ½. She hates the way the Greek people are being portrayed in the media. And she thinks the politicians are corrupt.
The room was lovely on the third floor with a large terrace. We got our things up to the room, found a free and safe place to park the car and wandered the harbor and the old city, then had dinner. I had my usual Greek Salad. I think I could eat this every night. 

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Ancient City Wall


Kissamos


Kissamos


I wanted to tell a story of a religious man I saw in the bus station. He was a Greek Orthodox priest I think. He was dressed in a dark blue long robe that buttoned in the front. It went to the floor and was long sleeved. It flowed beautifully when he walked. He had a long beard and was wearing a tall hat the was the shape of a giant water bottle cap, with a thin doughnut ring around the top. (I wish I could have taken his picture, but as with many things when you travel, sometime you cannot take a photo and still be respectful.) His “headquarters” was a table in the bus station, like all the other tables. This was clearly his “office”. He had his cold drink, a jumble of papers and most of the time was calmly sitting there with a wooden cross in one hand and a small playing card size photo of a saint in the other hand. He was holding them up for all to see. Several times during the 30 minutes I was in the bus station he patrolled around holding his religious symbols. Once I saw him go up to two young backpacker types and start talking to them. They did not speak Greek , but the priest kept talking and finally gently touched the cross to each of their foreheads and walked away.

Today, we had big plans to leave Kissamos, but we kept coming up with different ideas of what to do next. Like, should we rent a car, take the bus, go to Santarini (another island), go north, go east….we discussed many options. We decided to go have a coffee and walk around the town. I had seen some signs of the roman ruins, so we saw a small part of the ancient village wall, this village had an inner and outer wall. Then we found the ruins of a Roman urban home with a mosaic floor. We saw another sign for Polyrinna, that pointed up a road so we started walking….we didn’t know how far it was or even what it was, just that it was a historical site. After climbing up an inclined road we stopped in a shady spot to assess the situation. Just then a man in a truck was driving by and he stopped and said, “Polyrinna?”... the name of the historical site as a question. We said yes. He moved some things around and offered us a place in the back of his truck. He had the two Polish tourists, who were also walking up the road, on the inside of the truck. So off we went, up and up and up until we were 5 miles up this road. It was a fabulous ride, with spectacular views and the wind was blowing so it was refreshing, but most of all it felt like a real adventure. I loved it. Little did we know it was this far. So this place is an ancient village (still occupied) built into the side of the mountain. There was an operating Roman aqueduct and lots of ruins of small stone houses, plus some of these stone houses that were occupied had signs of modern life, like loud music playing. It was a climb up to the site and houses were perched on the hillside. It was very hot and nearly no shade, but fascinating. We walked around the ruins for a couple of hours then made our descent. We learned that there was no bus to get back, and we asked all of the other tourists who were there for a ride, but no one said yes. So we decided to hitchhike and/or walk and depend on the generosity of the Greek people. We started down the road and in 15 minutes only two cars came by…finally a Greek family, on their way to the brothers house stopped, rearranged the children and the car seat and drove us down, chatting all the way.